Sunday, August 5, 2007Installing a Set of Four - Panel Bifold Doors If you're using a prepackaged set of bifold doors, compare the manufacturer's specs with your rough opening. If you're using a hardware pack age in conjunction with standard doors, consult the instructions to figure how to deduct from the opening size to find the door size.
Trim the doors, if necessary. Check the floors to make sure they’re level and correct any discrepancies with shims on the low side. If carpet or finish flooring ill be added later, you'll also need blocks on, both sides of the opening that are equal in thickness to the flooring. For carpet, allow 3/8 in. to ¾ in., depending on the pile of the carpet. For hardwood flooring, allow 3/4 in.
Thursday, July 26, 2007Cutting Plaster - Wood doors Plaster is a lot tougher to cut than drywall. The degree of difficulty depends on the type of plaster system that was used. The oldest type of plaster was applied over closely spaced strips of wood called wood lath. Plaster contains mostly sand and is abrasive enough to strip the teeth right off a reciprocating-saw blade. Instead, chop through the plaster with a wide flooring chisel or a brick chisel. After outlining the cut with a chisel, break up the intervening plaster with a hammer. Once the plaster falls off, cut the wood lath with a saw.
The next type of plaster was used in the early 1900s, when wire lath replaced wood lath. To remove this plaster, score and break it. The plaster will ding to the wire lath, exposing a strip about 2 in. wide. Cut the wire lath using a combination of a chisel, sheet-metal snips, and wire cutters. You can then pry away plaster panels from the framing with a pry bar. Wear heavy protective clothing and leather gloves. The last type, modern plaster, is applied over gypsum lath, a drywall-like product that can be cut with a reciprocating saw. The plaster veneer is quite hard, so you may need to score the surface with a chisel before sawing the gypsum lath. Once the framing is complete, fasten the wall surfaces to the framing around the opening. Be careful to place the nails so that they'll be covered by the trim. For more information please contact Greatdoorsandgates.com developer of Wood doors and Wrought iron doors.
Wednesday, July 25, 2007Separate Sills - Wood doors More manufacturers are furnishing the overhanging portion of their sills as a separate piece to fit into the main sill with a tongue-and-groove joint. Having no overhang on the sill enables the unit to nest tightly during shipping, which eases handling and reduces damage. Separate sill extensions can be cut in the field to create whatever length of horn is necessary. However, separate sills have a serious drawback: Water can infiltrate the joint between the extension and the primary sill and lead to decay.
To prevent this, set them in a generous bed of caulk exception is a door that takes a full step down to a deck or stoop. In that situation, the casing runs past the sill to the deck, while a durable kick board fits between the leg casings instead of the siding. A kick board can take more abuse than siding. Keep the ends of the casings and the bottom of the kick board at least ½ in. above a deck or patio to prevent decay. Joining the casing is pretty straightforward. Join brick mold with miters. Flat casings are better joined with butt joints, because large miters tend to open in exterior work. I like to reinforce the joint by driving a screw down from the headpiece into the leg. For more information please contact Greatdoorsandgates.com developer of Wood doors and Wrought iron doors.
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